By Dirk Rendel

Fancy diamonds are interesting because they seem to flout the rules of diamond buying. For one, they are well below the D-Z color threshold and yet that doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re less expensive than the lower tier diamonds. In fact, it is quite the contrary. Some of the diamonds in this category are among the most expensive ever sold, just look at one of the greatest diamonds of all: The Hope Diamond, a fancy blue.

So wrap your head around that? We had talked earlier about how the more yellow you find in a diamond, the less it is worth. But this is because small bits of color detract from the beauty of the whiteness inherent in a diamond. Now suppose that there was more yellow than white. This is, in some cases, more rare than finding a diamond with absolutely no yellow. And rarity is the foundation of anything of great value.

So how rare are these sparkling beauties? Well, only about one in ten thousand stones manages to qualify for the term “fancy colored diamond.”

And so by all accounts we’re in a different diamond realm here. Even the handling of them is different from colorless diamonds. Where as a clear diamond would be cut to emphasize the brilliance, the sparkle of a typical diamond, a fancy diamond is cut in an effort to maximize the color. As for shape, a fancy diamond won’t necessarily fall under the

Levels of Intensity

Just because these diamonds are fancy doesn’t mean they can flout the rules of diamond grading. These special diamonds have to be measured and compared to one another just like regular diamonds. But whereas “white” diamonds are judged by their lack of color, fancy stones are rated by “vibrancy”.

The lowest end of the spectrum is “Faint” and this category only barely manages to evoke the beauty that a true fancy diamond is capable of. Next comes “Very Light” and then simply “Light.” Each of these grades represent an increase of any given color, a deepening of that shade. Then comes “Fancy Light.” Now we’re in fancy territory.

A grade above Fancy Light is “Fancy”. Followed by this designation would be the color of the diamond in question. So if it was yellow, it would be a Fancy Light Yellow unless it had a deeper yellowing and was therefore a Fancy Yellow. Are you catching on? After Fancy comes “Fancy Intense”, which is about as expensive as it sounds. This is where we start getting into the territory reserved for celebrities, athletes, and other millionaires.

After Fancy Intense comes even more color mania: Fancy Vivid. If you’ve ever seen a Fancy Vivid Yellow, you’ve got a pretty good idea of the insane amount of color intensity inherent in the stone. In a way, it’s almost miraculous that diamonds can be so colorful. If they weren’t rare, of course, there wouldn’t be such a high premium on them. But it is important to remember that these grades aren’t the be-all and end-all of fancy diamonds. In truth, the color shades are so crazy and varied that sometimes even this type of regulation doesn’t quite reveal the intensity or value of any given fancy diamond. Either way, it is still a nice, trusty chart to depend on.

And it is also important to note that Yellow is one of the best fancy colors for orderly grading. Some of the other colors are just too wildly disparate to really rely on these lines of demarcation. Take Fancy Brown diamonds, for instance. Since the different tints of brown border on yellow, orange, and even green, it can sometimes be impossible to say it’s a fancy deep brown when it might be a fancy dark orange, or what have you.

By Dirk Rendel

The carat is the unit that is used to determine how much a diamond weighs. Keep in mind, though, that this doesn’t necessarily correspond to size or appearance. A well cut stone may look smaller than it is, meaning it looks like it has less carats. And, conversely, a poorly cut stone will result in a diamond that might look larger than it weighs.

So it should come as no surprise, then, that when measuring diamonds, experts use the old Bugs Bunny Routine: The more carats, the better. That’s what’s up, Doc. A carat weighs out to a fifth of a gram, meaning that five carats will weigh a gram, of course. One carat, then, is two hundred milligrams of pure diamond perfection. If you’re like me and haven’t done any basic math since grade school, it amounts to 0.2 grams.

It makes sense that the more carats a diamond has, the more expensive it is. But it isn’t as simple as saying that a 1 carat stone costs exactly half as much as a two carat stone. That would be called “thinking rational” and nothing about diamonds is rational. A 1 carat stone, for instance, costs far more than twice that of a half carat stone. And so on and so forth. And the reason for that is because larger diamonds are more rare than smaller ones. When they’re being pulled out of the earth, smaller assorted diamonds are far more likely to be found than big, whopping ones. And that’s why the larger single stones are far more expensive the more that they weigh.

A good rule of thumb to remember is that the closer you get to each subsequent carat, the more expensive the diamond will be. Let’s suppose that you have a 0.8ct stone. Logically, you’d think that getting the full carat wouldn’t be much of a jump in price. But indeed it is. Even the difference between a 0.9 stone and a full carat is somewhat outrageous.

Weight a minute!

So now it gets a bit more complex. Now that we know the carat is the unit of weight for gems, we find that it is even more subdivided. Each carat is made up of one hundred “points” and the closer you get to the 100^th point, the next carat you reach. An easy way to remember this is when you hear “point,” think “percentage point.” After all, that’s really what it is.

So when you’re buying your diamonds, whether it is the stone in the middle of your engagement band or a simple set of earrings, remember that the diamond’s price gets higher as it approaches another full carat. In other words, a 2.90 carat diamond isn’t much smaller than a 3 carat, but the price between the two will be far more than you would suppose, due to the carat threshold.

This can help you, though. Since it is virtually impossible for the average person to tell the difference between, say, a 0.90ct stone and a full carat, you can save quite a bit of money. If you were getting three different stones, for instance, you could get three 0.90 stones instead of three 1 carat stones and save even more.

Size Matters!

It is important to distinguish between size and weight. Diamonds sell by carats but that doesn’t necessarily equate to “more carats equal a bigger size.” The cut of the diamonds can play a big part and the naked eye, along with the tricks light plays, can fill in the rest. A Round Brilliant, for instance, can be essentially the same size as a pear cut but look smaller just because of its shape and cut. A one carat princess cut, for instance, may be about five and a half millimeters in diameter from the top, while a heart shaped cut is closer to seven millimeters across the top. But, again, that doesn’t mean that one will look bigger than the other until we learn about the cut grade of each stone.

So when you’re buying diamonds, you’ll need to take size and weight equally into consideration. Remember that a bigger diamond won’t necessarily be more expensive because it might have more flaws. And a tiny, half carat diamond might be twice as expensive as a 2 carat gem because it veers closer to the flawless side of things.

What you’ll want to do is find the perfect harmony between the purity of the diamond and its size. To do this, it helps to know what type of diamond your mate is into. Does he or she like a big, gaudy gem? Or is it a small sparkle that sets their heart aflutter? Also keep in mind that, if you’re getting a diamond ring for a woman, you have to take the size of her fingers into consideration. If she’s got small, dainty hands and fingers, a diamond will look bigger on her. Also, if her fingers are very skinny, this rule will apply as well. So with that in mind, a smaller carat size (like 1ct) may look quite big compared to a similar ring on a woman with bigger hands. And anything bigger might be TOO gaudy for her. Either way, the end result is that women with small, slender fingers will definitely be cheaper to shop for.

By Dirk Rendel

This time, we’re going to be looking at a magical thing called “Clarity.” If you don’t know what the word clarity means, it basically means “clearness.” But don’t think that this is Color. That isn’t the kind of clear I’m talking about. By clear, we’re discussing an absence of flaws. So let’s hop in already and see what this whole clarity thing is all about.

In diamond lingo, the flaws that might be present in any given diamond are known as “inclusions.” Put simply, a diamond’s clarity is the term for the amount of imperfections that may be present on your diamond. Imperfections on the surface are known as blemishes, while the imperfections inside the diamond are, you guessed it, inclusions.

Now, before you start becoming a diamond snob and turn your nose up at any flawed diamond, keep in mind that most diamonds are indeed filled with inclusions. After all, they’re pieces of carbon that have been smashed down by the earth’s pressure. Do you think that might have an effect on your stones? At any rate, the inclusions can be many things but, often, they’re several things. Cracks are often found inside diamonds, as are bubbles of air. The surface area of most diamonds also often have scratches, pits, and any number of superficial damage. Sometimes a crummy diamond cutter will make some lovely man-made blemish, just to show nature that we can do it better and faster.

If you haven’t noticed yet, there seems to be a grading system for each and every part of a diamond’s potential worth. But don’t fret, my friends. We can make sense of it all and come out better at the end.

F- Okay, so when you grade diamonds on their clarity, you begin with the top notch, the highest possible grade. This grade is known as “flawless” and includes all diamonds that don’t have any blemishes or inclusions. Think of it as the “mint condition” of baseball cards and you’ve got the right idea. But rare is the baseball card, no matter how minty, that can compare to the price of a true flawless diamond. Flawless diamonds are so rare that you’ll likely never even see one, much less be able to afford one. But don’t worry, there are quite a few lower tiers of diamond quality that should more than suffice.

IF- Whereas the “F” stands for “flawless”, IF stands for “internally flawless”. Put simply, the inside is flawless but there are minute flaws on the surface. But internally flawless diamonds are also very rare. Not as rare as flawless, naturally, but you’ll still be paying quite a premium for these babies.

VVS- This grade stands for “very very slightly included”. Yes, diamond experts love redundancy and to further illustrate that point, diamond graders divide this category still further, into VVS1 and VVS2. Very very slightly included 1 is a bit better than very very slightly included 2, but both are absolutely fantastic choices. They have the smallest of imperfections that you can only spot if you have a microscope, and even then you’ll have trouble locating them.

VS – Just a notch under VVS is VS. Again, there are two tiers: VS1 and VS2. Like VVS, you won’t be able to see these imperfections without a microscope but they will be easier to spot than VVS. Still, this applies to diamond experts and an untrained person may still not be able to find these imperfections.

SI- SI stands for “slightly included” and, like VS, they come in two grades, SI1 and SI2. With a microscope set at 10x magnification, you can spot these a bit easier but, again, the naked eye can’t even detect these imperfections.

I- “I” stands for “included” and, this time, there are 3 grades. I1, I2, and I3. These diamonds do have flaws that can be seen with the naked eye and, generally, it is recommended that you don’t buy any of these diamonds.

So what should you buy? Well, essentially your only real options are VVS and VS. Flawless and internally flawless will probably be well out of your price range and the “I” range is something your really should stay away from. The “SI” grouping can often have good choices, though, and they are known as “eye clean” because the naked eye can’t discern any real flaws.

So now we’ve got the field narrowed down a bit. We can choose between VS or VVS, and then within each one we can choose the number one or number two rating of clarity. And here it comes down to what you’re willing to spend. Let’s assume we’re going with an Ideal cut and we don’t know if we want VS or VVS. With that in mind, we can assume that a VVS 1, the best VVS, can easily cost an arm and a leg. Diamond prices fluctuate daily but this is definitely going to hold true throughout time. So that’s the VVS1. Now the VVS2, one notch lower but in the same clarity range, can be up to 20% less when every other factor is equivalent. Quite a drop for the same clarity grade, don’t you think?

And yet it gets better. The VS1, the best of the very slightly included range, can likely net you a further drop in price, meaning it should be quite a bit more affordable for an ideal cut. And then, of course, the VS2 is a further drop. So when you look at it, a VVS1 can conceivably cost you thousands more over the price of a VS2. And virtually nobody will be able to tell the difference, especially with the naked eye.

And since we want to put all the factors together in diamond buying to make sure that every facet is to your liking, don’t you think it makes sense to save money on this “C” and spend more on cut, or color, or virtually any other aspect of the purchase?

By Dirk Rendel

Cut has a huge effect on whether or not it will sparkle brilliantly like the North Star. But even the diamond with the most exceptional sparkle will fail to reach its full potential if its color isn’t up to snuff.

But what color do we truly want out of a diamond? Well, interestingly enough, the best color is the absence of color. It’s kind of like “no news is good news.” Picture a hot swimsuit model on a calendar and envision the clear, transparent drops of water that bead on her supple chest and reflect the light from the beach sun. That’s what you want (the water drops, not the chest). Essentially, the best diamonds are completely white. We want the least amount of distraction. This is what causes a diamond to look brilliant, sparkly, and expensive.

And, as luck would have it, diamonds have their own grading system in order to rank the color quality. The grading system starts with the letter “D”, which is the highest rating a diamond can have. A, B and C are completely cast aside. So, think of all those D’s you got on your report card when you were a kid. If only you had known, you could have told your angry parents that if you were a diamond you’d have a perfect score.

It should come as no surprise that D is completely devoid of color, and then as the alphabet goes on, each subsequent letter grade has more color in there. Still, the differences in some of the shades are so small that diamond merchants prefer to have the diamond color ratings in ranges. Thus, the letters D, E, and F all make up the “colorless” range. Not surprisingly, these will be the most expensive group of diamonds if everything else (like cut and clarity) are equal. The next range goes from G to J. Anything falling within this group is known as “near colourless.” Though it may be hard for an untrained person to tell the difference between F(which is at the low end of colorless) and G (which is the most colorless of the near colorless), you can bet that your bank account will notice a bigger discrepancy. Hey, we don’t write the rules! We don’t even enforce ‘em!

So what comes next on the color scale? Well now we start getting into the type of diamonds you really don’t even want to bother with. The color range of K through M are considered “noticeable color” and you will certainly notice the color on these babies. N through Z are even more colorful and, again, they’re hardly worth even mentioning.

But, the difference that these colors have on the price of the diamond are pretty interesting. Essentially, the drop in price may not be what you expect. It isn’t like D, E and F are all basically matched and then the drop comes at G and stays steady until J. Not at all.

Actually, the biggest drop in price happens between a drop from D to E. Hard to believe, I know, but think of it like this: You know how when you drive your new car off the lot, it immediately becomes a “used car” and loses ten percent of its value? That’s what happens when light and other natural things affect a diamond as it is being mined. So the drop from D to E is a stunning 25% in value. Pretty hard to believe, eh? After that, it basically drops ten percent with each letter, so that a G would be 45 percent less valuable than a D. A J would be 65 percent less expensive. Once you get to H, the drop isn’t as significant. It becomes about 5% cheaper with each subsequent letter. In the meantime, in the realm of real diamonds, it is important to remember that D through F are all essentially still colorless to the human eye. So think about that when you’re making the purchase. And it gets even better: G through I are still essentially colorless and so you can save even more money by going further down. It is important to remember, however, that larger diamonds will cause the color to be more visible. Keep this in mind so that you can strike the perfect balance between size and color.

By Dirk Rendel

The Asscher cut may have a name that isn’t exactly what you’d call “demure,” but the truth of the matter is that there is in fact quite an exciting and illustrious history to this unfortunately named diamond shape.

In 1902, two brothers with a stunning reputation for diamond cutting devised a brand new shape that would take the world by storm. These brothers were already renowned around the world for cutting the biggest diamond in the world at the time. So the name Asscher certainly wasn’t anything to scoff at. At any rate, the brothers developed this unique cut that served as the prototype that later cuts, especially the emerald cut, would emulate. For this diamond was one of the first to feature step facets, as we’ve learned about above.

It was indeed a revolutionary diamond shape and, though it was popular at its infancy, it was nothing compared to when the Asscher cut really caught on, in the 1920s. During the Roaring Twenties, virtually every member of the lost generation was sporting Asschers on their ears, on their necks, and on their fingers.

But, like flapper girls, cloche hats, and Ruth Etting, it seemed that the Asscher cut was just a ’20s fad that would eventually collapse with the decade, like the stock market. For the rest of the century, the Asscher was relegated to specialty shops and antiques outlets; anybody who wanted a step cut diamond veered toward the more brilliant and timely emerald cut. This made Asscher cut diamonds very rare indeed, because many stores wouldn’t even bother carrying them. It was far more profitable to cut rough diamonds into more popular cuts.

It seemed like the brothers Asscher would go down in history as has-beens. But, as often happens with dusty old relics, one day it started to become more fashionable to walk around with Asscher diamonds. It wasn’t unlike the way that Roman gladiator sandals suddenly became stylish for women to wear in the late ’00s when previously they hadn’t been cool since the days of Caligula.

These days, the Asscher cut is far more prevalent in the diamond industry and you’ll find them at many, many more retailers than you would only ten years ago. Part of the reason for the regrowth industry is because, with today’s technology, we can make Asschers that shine far more brilliantly than the original. A modern Asscher truly is a sight to behold, especially if it is cut right. As mentioned earlier, the Asscher forshadowed the emerald cut with its step facets. But the step facets on the Asscher cut are larger, and let in more light than the emerald. What’s more, the crown is higher and the table is smaller, making the overall package sparkle far more than it ever had before.

And that style cut is what makes the Asscher so unique in the first place. Looking down at it, you can see a ring of squares that get wider the further out they are. Think of a square ripple in a pond. The corners on an Asscher are often cropped, giving a slightly more round or octagonal look, and this in turn helps to make the diamond look even more brilliant. It also helps to lend itself perfectly to a prong setting.

Radiant Cut

The name says it all, doesn’t it? “Radiant” just screams brilliance and light and, in a way, it really does deliver on its promise. This square cut does not act like other square cuts at all, and the key to its difference is the fact that it actually has a brilliant cut facet pattern, just like the old stalwart the brilliant round. Think of it as a brilliant square, in a way, because the crown and pavilion have a similar shape to the brilliant round’s design; it’s the only way to get all those facets in, really.

This also makes the radiant cut similar to another popular shape: The princess cut. But the radiant cut isn’t as locked in size-wise as some of these other stones. While a square radiant cut might evoke a princess, there are many radiant cuts that are more rectangular, almost like an emerald cut. In truth, both styles are popular and it is really up to personal taste which shape you would prefer. Keep in mind that, when the prongs are on, a square radiant cut does indeed look like a princess cut.

Either way, it is refreshing to note that the radiant cut has quite a bit of value behind its shiny exterior. Because it is so brilliant, it is harder to see inclusions and imperfections in the stone. So much light shines back that even flaws visible to the naked eye won’t always be noticed. This allows people interested in radiant cuts to buy a bit lower on the clarity scale and still get a beautiful stone. And, what’s more, it is often pointed out that many buyers actually prefer radiant cut stones in the color grades below D-F. Many find that the colorlessness of these top tier grades are a bit too “cool” and are devoid of personality. The slight coloring of, say, an H grade diamond is more appealing to quite a few radiant cut fans. But at the end of the day, the choice is of course up to you.

By Dirk Rendel

The emerald cut, sometimes referred to as a step cut, is an incredibly fascinating shape that is layered almost like a wedding cake. Imagine a staircase and you get the right idea. The steps become smaller and higher as you get to the middle of the stone and, as you can imagine, it provides a unique and beautiful shimmer that can’t be recreated with other cuts.

With so much complexity, as well as with so much open space, you have to be careful when choosing an emerald cut diamond. Any flaws will be quite a bit more visible with this wide stone, and too much yellow will definitely come out as well, more so than other cuts. But what the emerald cut lacks in clarity, it more than makes up for in value. A prudent and wise shopper can get an absolutely gorgeous showstopper of a diamond just by shopping smart. A round brilliant costs more than an emerald cut with the same cut grade and clarity, meaning that you can have an emerald cut with the same level of quality as a round but with far more personality and a much more unique appearance.

Also, you can get a larger stone for less money with the emerald cut, so it isn’t out of the question that your stone may be shinier than your friend’s round brilliant. Or you could save the money and get a presentable stone and then really splurge on the setting. For the record, you’ll need a prong setting so keep that in mind when you peruse.

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut, like the marquise, is a classic, elegant style of diamond that hearkens back to an antiquated age. In this case, the end of the Victorian Era. This shape evokes the deep cuts of the Old Mine Cut, a very popular diamond style near the turn of the 20^th century. Some people call it a pillow cut because it was used to reflect candlelight in the days before electricity. That is, of course, if you could afford these sparkly wonders. Let’s just say most of the people Charles Dickens wrote about in those days weren’t lighting their hovels by diamond light. Either way, the cushion cut is typically rectangular or square but with rounded corners.

The culet, or bottom of the diamond, is open, and the facets are rather large. This means that you’ll want to get as high a grade as you can possibly afford. We’re talking at least a “good” cut grade and a color of L or better. You may not be able to afford something in this range and, when you factor in the fact that most cushion cuts can’t be found in a half carat or lower, you might be even more hard pressed. What’s more, the cushion cut is harder to find than other shapes because it simply doesn’t sell as well as some of the more well known cuts.

Still, the cushion cut went through a bit of a drop in popularity and for years it was extremely hard to even find one of these babies, since diamond cutters were more focused on round brilliants and ovals. But the cushion cut has been on the rise in popularity, possibly due to its unique appearance when compared to the more traditionally popular stones.

By Dirk Rendel

As popular as the pear shape is, it is surprising how many people don’t know that this type of diamond is actually a hybrid of sorts. It “pairs” (sorry about the pun) our old stalwart the round brilliant and the trusty old marquise. When done right, the pear can be among the most brilliant, sparkling designs around, adding an extra layer of luxury to even the most beautiful jewelry.

But when done wrong, the pear is a mere shadow of its true potential. You’ll have to be careful when looking at pear shapes because a slight imperfection can ruin the entire atmosphere of this classy stone. Also, make sure that the shoulders of the pear are at an appropriate angle. You don’t want the shoulders to be too high. High shoulders on a pear stone will completely ruin the symmetry and fluidity of what is meant to be a gorgeous design. Also be vigilant about ensuring that the shoulders are even. They are supposed to form a smooth, rounded arc. Anything that resembles corners or ridges should be avoided at all costs. You’ll probably know right away which ones have wonky shoulders because they’ll be priced lower.

Heart:

It should come as no surprise that many people find this to be among the most romantic cuts. After all, hearts and diamonds have always gone beautifully together. Haven’t you ever seen a deck of cards? But all joking aside, the heart shape really is quite popular as a romantic gift, even when you step back and realize that it is little more than a pear cut with a cleft for its top.

But it is important to know that this is not an easy shape to shop for. The cut of a heart shaped diamond must be absolutely precise and it is recommended that you opt for as high a grade as you can afford. The reason for this is that the cleft can easily be screwed up and made to look inferior. And unlike with some other stones, this cut can really let its imperfections shine through.

Typically, you’ll find the heart shape to be less prevalent than other shapes when you’re shopping for diamonds. There are a couple reasons for why this is: We’ve already learned that it can be a total bitch to cut a heart shaped diamond, but also you will find that many sellers won’t cut a heart stone that weighs less than a carat. If you’re lucky you’ll find some 0.75ct heart cuts during your shopping experience. Either way, you can already see the price tag inflating before your eyes, can’t you? They say the heart wants what the heart wants; in this case, the heart wants all of your money.

But it is still a beautiful cut and, when set in a four prong setting (this is the necessary setting for the heart cut, just as the six prong setting is required for the oval), it really does glimmer with the light of a thousand Paris nights.

By Dirk Rendel

The Oval diamond is always a great statement, especially when a brilliant cut allows it to shine in all its splendor. If your gift recipient has long, thin fingers, the oval cut will look even more glorious. While it isn’t as popular as its cousin, the round brilliant, it’s definitely an alternative.

The thing you’ll want to decide, if you’re going with the oval, is the proportion of its shape. Oval diamonds can sometimes be thinner and longer, but they can also be very short and stout. Some folks like the shorter, fatter ovals while others prefer the long types, so it may help to get an idea of the recipient’s preference. Either way, you can play it safe and get a traditionally beautiful oval if you stay in a ratio between 1.4 and 1.5

One thing to be careful of, however, is any dark spots that may be in the center of your oval diamond. This is a somewhat common problem known as the “bow tie effect” and it happens because of the oval’s inherent shape capturing light and holding it hostage. Don’t worry, you’ll be able to see the bow tie if it’s there, just so long as you make sure to look at the stone in different lights and angles.

As for a setting, you’re basically left with prongs as your only option, due again to the oval’s difficult shape. But don’t worry, this is actually a good thing. Nothing makes the oval pop more than the six prongs that seem to delicately suspend it in midair for all the world to see and drool over.

The Marquise Cut

This cut has plenty of history behind it. Louis XIV, the father of luxury, commissioned this cut as a celebration of the late 17^th century Marquise de Pompadour. The marquise cut is essentially an elongated oval but with the ends considerably pointier and meant to celebrate the smile of the eponymous Marquise. We never really got a glimpse of her, but if there was one thing Louis XIV knew, it was diamonds, so we’ll take his word for it.

The great thing about this cut is that it is versatile; far more versatile than you’d think, given its somewhat jarring shape. Typically a larger carat stone will serve as the centerpiece and other, smaller diamonds are often used to flank it and make it seem even more magnificent. While the marquise isn’t as popular as it was in its heyday, you’ll still see this beautiful cut make an appearance every now and then.

By Dirk Rendel

The round shape is, as you’ve guessed, the most popular and traditional shape but by no means does that mean that it is the only one. Essentially, a round cut is the standard shape for a diamond and all the other shapes are known as “fancy shapes.” But it is impossible to talk about the round shape without mentioning its soul-mate, the brilliant cut.

For years now, the most popular diamond shape and cut is the “Round Brilliant.” This shape caught on centuries ago when it was revealed that this type of cut made the diamond sparkle far more than any other style. It took years for cutting technology to catch up enough to do the cut justice but today we’re treated to the ultimate representation of the Round Brilliant.

If you look at the top of a Round Brilliant, it looks like a sparkling, shiny snowflake was inlaid on the surface. The side view shows the typical diamond shape we’ve come to know and love: A sort of three dimensional inverted triangle, tapering down to a point. And the popularity of this cut is most apparent in its market domination: More than half of diamonds sold are Round Brilliants, and the trademark of the cut, aside from its incredible sparkle factor, is the 57 facet cut that creates the brilliant effect.

But it isn’t just the Round Brilliant that captures hearts across the world. While it sounds like good advice to tell you that you should know exactly what shape you want before you begin shopping, diamond buying is a bit different than other shopping experiences. You might actually prefer to be open minded and consider a few different cuts. Let’s take a closer look at another popular cut:

The Princess Cut

The Princess cut is, in some circles, second only to the round as the most popular cut. And for good reason, too. The cut is more unique than the Round yet it still retains the same level of brilliance. In fact, it actually equals the round brilliant in terms of facets, meaning that it sparkles almost the same. It is little wonder, then, that this is one of the top choices for engagement rings. After all, doesn’t every woman want to be a princess? We’ve all seen Disney movies!

A Princess cut, when you look from the top, is basically square with nice, pointed corners. Sometimes it veers into a rectangular shape depending on the stone from which it was cut. If you’re considering bringing a Princess home with you, you should spend some time determining which shape you want to stick with. A good rule of thumb is to look at the ratio of the diamond. If you want a square Princess, stick within a length-to-width ratio of 1 to 1.1 and no higher. Once you get higher than this it becomes very rectangular very quickly. And, naturally, if you want to go with a rectangle, don’t veer below a 1.1 ratio.

The Princess is picky indeed, and she requires a four prong setting. But this is great, actually, because it is the four corners on the stone that are the most susceptible to being chipped. And furthermore, this is one of the few posh cuts that you can get smaller carat solitaires. So you can get a smaller stone with a higher grade and still make it look better than a two carat heart shaped stone of middling quality.

By Dirk Rendel

Like school, diamonds are given “grades” for how good or poor they are. The people making the grades are experts and very, very in depth in their evaluations. You could write an entire separate book about the exact nature of the diamond grading criteria but it would be very boring, very dry, and very depressing. So instead of having you die of boredom, I’ll simply outline the most important and necessary stuff.

There are quite a few companies that grade diamonds and all are very, very prestigious. There’s the GIA, or Gemological Institute of America, the IGI, or International Gemological Institute, the EGL, known as the European Gemological Laboratory (why they don’t call themselves an institute is beyond me), and the AGS, or American Gem Society. These are basically the heavy hitters of the industry and their opinion weighs incredibly heavy on the value of every diamond that passes their way. And between all of these prestigious institutes (and LABS!), virtually every diamond worth its weight in salt does indeed pass their way.

The cut grades of these various groups are based on some pretty high tech stuff. We’re talking computer programs and people that measure exact brilliance and fire, dispersion, leakage, scintillation, and virtually everything in between. The rating, however, is the most important piece of information for you to chew over, though.

Your diamond will most likely come with a lab certificate that will let you know the grade of the diamond and this is a great thing to have to ensure that your diamond is legit. But remember that the certificate will also let you know if any artificial treatment has been done to the stone to improve it. Consider the certificate a report card of sorts and then go from there. And, as luck would have it, the vast majority of online diamond sellers carry either GIA, EGL, or both ratings, meaning that you’ll have the peace of mind that your stone is guaranteed to be what it claims and that you’ll be able to return it if there are any issues with its quality.

Now would be a good time to point out a fairly pervasive misunderstanding in diamond buying: The difference in “cut” and “shape.” While the cut of a diamond refers in part to the level of craftsmanship and quality of the person who cut the diamond, it is impossible to talk about the diamond’s cut without mentioning the “shape.” These two terms are sometimes thought to be interchangeable but what it really is is that the cut encompasses the shape. The shape does not make up the entire aspect of the Four C’s, but you will hear the shape being referred to as a cut. If it sounds complicated, it really isn’t.